Current Toys

Silicon brake fluid... v.little brake fade... simples!

Ran it in all my Aircooled... and the Rocco... but you may need to check suitability for ABS...

Warning is that you have to compoletely empty your old fluid out as they don't play well together at all!

Personally I prefer the idea of running OEM parts as oppose to being a science experiment.
Anyhow, a while ago you were trying to get me to buy huge brakes that would not fit under my wheel arches.

oh yeah................................


THE WHEELS LOOK GORGEAUS / AMAZING!!!!

Hum, an update of sort.

Rebuilt the pipe from the turbo to the pancake pipe but cutting off the baronet fitting and then using a silicone pipe to join things up. There might be some pictures somewhere but that fixed a leak I had.
The divert valve was then placed on the cold side of the intercooler, dirvert spring now changed to yellow.

It was put on a rolling road and remapped but the actuator is leaking so it hits 17 psi and then falls off to 12, whilst this is not all that noticeable on the road it is clear on the map. The torque hits 230ftlb but then falls meaning that overall BHP is only ~190. The map however is clean and crisp so very night to drive with.

Next job, fix the actuator and get 23 psi of that the map allows for. Then go back to the rolling road and change a few things to get a perfect map. Not sure if 230 BHP is achievable with a clean map but we shall see.

The work is being done by TCS Performance near Stansted. I can't express how much knowledge they have and how dedicated to working with me they have been. They are busy boys because of their reputation and the work they do but when they are working on your car they really get into it. The ability to use the rolling road in between remaps means they can check air flow rates, psi and torque to check the map is giving what you want. More to come when we finish it off.

nice one CALI -man

230bhp makes you a scooby slayer

sounds good cali. cant wait for everything to start falling into place on my motor.
hope your happy with it! cant wait to see it on the motorway


Dash

dubdread wrote:

nice one CALI -man

230bhp makes you a scooby slayer

i wanna be a Slayer..!! best sort my Leon out.

I am going to plan my next trip with a few people who want remaps, make a day of it.
I only need to change the actuator for even more gains but the torque I currently have is amazing. A few other changes and the car will be a destroyer.

mmmm remap. let me know when so i can get some cash together. how much am i looking at.?

That might depend on how many people we have. We might even be able to get them and the rolling road to come visit us if we had a place to meet on a Saturday or Sunday.

like it.

Hum, no updates posted for six months which is not true.

Car was eventually remapped but a weak turbo actuator is giving poor top end BHP as boost tails off. The map is giving about 17-18 PSI and creating 230lbs of torque. BHP was about 200. A new actuator will be bought when I stop having to fix other problems.

Coolant fluid was being dropped on the gearbox from the temperature sensor flange. Only cost £9 so that went on last week.

Boost gauge has been fitted so I can now see the vacuum and boost so can set up a new actuator when it arrives. My vacuum reads about 20 hg at tick over and up to 25hg when I lift off from the throttle. That indicates there is minimal vacuum leaks and a Vagcom adaptation check shows the same thing so they are all sorted. Hurruh.

I could however still be loosing some boost still so a revisit to all the pipes and clamps might be a good idea. For instance, the AGU engine had a pre-intercooler charge pipe that used clamps on both ends rather than the weak bayonet cap type that the AUM engine had. I bought a spare AUM pipe as they are very cheap to source and cut the bayonet off with the old grinder. Then made up a section from couplers and silicon pipe to join the pipes up. This appeared to do the job but might now have a problem.

As the weather gets better there are a few other little projects to do such as the clutch and the flywheel before moving to the bigger turbo. Hopefully I can get 23 psi out of the current set-up reliable so I can really feel the difference.

Bring on the New Year and lets do the Nomad thing. Bigger, Better, Faster.

woooooooooooooooo hoooooooooooooooo!! u've managed to sort all ur air leaks!!! and that only took like a year!! hahahahaa!!!


Good gains from the remap - ur engine set up dosnt really le tu have much more that that with out changing turbos etc - so well done!!

Nice to see some more 'garage' sections going up!

..............hmmmmmm i need something to put in my garage now!

Probably about two years to fix those leaks. Haha, that is sometimes the way.
I think I can get a bit more from this set up before turbo swap just need some good weather.

bring on the summer....................bring on the horsepower!!

Any updates on this thread, ive read it from the start and well impressed! You've put alot of work in and it looks spot on!

What Turbo have you got in yours is it the Ko3 or the Ko3s?

If its the Ko3 i think 200 will be your max, maybe 205, after that your pushing its limits even with all that you have installed. If you have the Ko3s your manage a safe 235 to 240 bhp no probs. Ko4 would be 270+

My old Anni was Revo'd from 180 to 230 but that had the Ko3s. Im not trying to say wont get it i just wouldnt want you to push it until it went pop. Im only talking from past experiances ive had and what a few mates have had done with their Ko3.

Currently it should have a k03s so once I sort the leaky actuator the turbo should hit 23 psi.
I sourced some AGU charge pipes which went on last weekend and I think it is now hitting 19psi.
There is a rare K04 in a K03 housing that is meant to give 240 bhp to play with once the flywheel and clutch are changed to the g60/vr6 setup.
I want daily use, good MPG, put the folks in the back, yet beast when the pedal is applied. However I feel that age is now against it as things keep expiring, the more I push the more it pushes back.
As mentioned on your thread, I would like to see your car and feel a stage 1 r32, get an ideal for what the King feels like.

Thats what i really miss about my old turbo mk4, that thump then the boost comes in and it goes all crazy for a few seconds then thump again when you change gear. You still that that in an r32 but its a lot more laid back in the way its put down, the power delivery is still a brutal process but just a little more relaxed and controled. If you've got the Ko3s the world is in your hands they are brilliant!

I think about not spending any more money on mine (done 90k now) but its an addiction and i cant help but feed that addiction lol!

I'll take you out for a spin at the next meet, fingers crossed it should be stage 2 and a little quicker

I have been busy with work so the Golf took a back seat. Someone started to slash my tyres so money was being spent on that, then it got it's own rented garage so was safe again but someone started slashing the GF's tyres and so the money was still being lost.

Anyhow, recent work involved fixing problems.

1) Tailgate central locking intermittent and then not working
2) Tailgate window demister not working
3) Tailgate rusting away, good as it reduced weight, bad as it looked awful

The wires to the central locking and demister for the tailgate come trough a rubber tube in the top right hand site. VW decided to cut costs and make these wires too short so the get a lot of abuse as the tailgate is opened and closed. Result is they eventually break. Best case situation is the tailgate will become permanently unlocked whilst you think it is locked. The worst I had was that the wire blew a fuse causing the car central locking to deadlock, the tailgate could still be opened and the engine started, plus the doors could be opened from inside but then not relocked. Did I mention this happened on the way to a wedding whilst I was wearing my best suit?

Solved all the problems by fitting a new tailgate from a 4mo. This already had the spoiler fitted and was a proper colour match. Two hours to swap over because I started doing it on my own. Not a hard job but you will need two people to line up the new one.

Whilst doing this I disconnected the battery. After reconnecting the car did not start as well, I also noticed it was sluggish but still hitting 18 PSI.
Apparently these cars like to adapt as they drive and disconnecting the battery may have caused the throttle bodies to go mad and forget what to do. Solution was to run VAG-COM and do the Throttle Body Adaptation test. Once complete the car ran even worse but still did not give any error codes.
Today I have fitted a new temp coolant sensor which appears to have done the job as well as replace the MAF. The coolant sensor was under £16.74 and I would recommend you try this first. The MAF was an exchange part and cost £71.40. I had to give them my old one but changing them in the car park is a screwdriver and five minutes job.
A quick test drive still gave lowish boost but I now had the sound of air from the engine so realised a boost hose had come loose so that is always a good sign. Once re-attached I was hitting 18 PSI and she felt smooth.
I still don't know if this will fix the poor starting issue so will report back in the next few days.
I will point out that I have been using VAG-Com and have not had a single error that would help fix any of these problems. Instead I had to rely on taking real time readings and then reviewing mass air flow, temp sensor readings and actual vs specified boost.

Still have to do the turbo.....

Yes, car now starts on the starter first time. Changing the temp coolant sensor appears to have cured this initial poor starting and running problem. The MAF was also making a difference.

OK, the GSF coolant temp sensor was causing problems. It would appear to be fine but threw errors and made the car run rich. Bought a genuine VW one for double the money and that is much better.
Also fitted a new coolant pipe from the turbo to the first hard pipe. The one I had didn't fit properly.
Plus I am rebuilding another turbo to be fitted soon but am looking for a spare OEM exhaust manifold to clean up and fit so if any one has one let me know.