Helix Organic clutch

Finally finally got the MAF moved, it's a whole new car now, idles, revs, gooooooooooooes proper

But the clutch is burned out, mostly because the slave cylinder failed and wasn't disengaging properly... Santa Pod probably didn't help...

£340 for a Helix Organic group N clutch that can handle up to 300 lb/ft - anyone know of anywhere likely to sell cheaper, or do a discount?

http://motorsport.rallynuts.com/renderitem.asp?ctid=2160&prid=3651

Mardi Gras Motorsport are helix distrubitors

http://www.mardigras.co.uk/

That is going to be a beefy clutch.
Have you got evidence that the VR6 clutch can't take up to 300 lb/ft? I ask because I am thinking of putting one in the MKIV before the remap and I was led to believe they would be able to take it.
Whilst I am looking at options I will keep an eye out for that clutch for you.

Mardi Gras sorted me out, cheers for that. In stock and best price, and delivered to the garage today.

I'm not sure whether through the faulty slave cylinder (it wasn't extending fully) or my fun at Santa Pod (probably both) but the last one didn't last all that long; I like to think I'm good at the whole mechanical sympathy thing but I do want a clutch that can take a hammering as I'm going to get some track time in shortly, and I want to drive home as well

Motorsport guy recommended the Helix Organic as they are beefy but they're not as sudden or as prone to juddering as the cerimetallic stuff; I think a standard clutch would probably work most of the time but I'm trying to make this car bulletproof and track-friendly.

£320 plus the VAT... better be worth it

I'll let you know what it feels like Cali.

VR6 clutch is good for atleast 300ftlb. It'll certainly hold on to it.

Where the "proper" clutches come in to play is when you're trying to ride the clutch e.g. a standing start as they'll hold on to a lot more than the standard ones whilst slipping.

For a road car that has to deal with traffic etc... I'd stick with stock clutches where possible. The grippier ones are always significantly more jumpy and wear quickly when slipping in stop start traffic for instance.

I use a helix 4 paddle clutch and it's jumpy as hell pootling around the road but for a full bore standing start it feels spot on.

yeah, I see a fair bit of Santa Pod in my future and if I'm lucky enough to be going round as fast as we were at Volksfest (and now that she's running much, much better with the relocated MAF) then I need a clutch that has muscle.

Do you get to a lot of track days? Where do I sign up for Team Mallard?

Mallard racing is just a silly site we set up with a few mates - barely updated.
www.stealthymallard.co.uk

I generally jump on track days that folk from clubgti are going to.
There's currently talk of a trip to cadwell (which is a mini-nurburgring! it's awesome) in early november at the mo.

Cool, was going to look at the gti one as tell said there's a lot of track days organised there.

I know Cadwell - hmmmmmmmmm

If you want to do track days and you don't have an oil cooler... get one... a BIG one.

What sort of temp does your vr sit at? What's a bad temp to see?

Mine overheats after being on it for a while... I need more air into my cooler (big ass 19row!)

Safe temps depend entirely on oil. I use race spec silkolene / motul oils and they are apparently stable to 130+ degrees.

I was told by an expert that common oils such as magnatec etc... dont provide decent lubrication at anything much over 105-110 degrees and seriously start to degrade after that.
80-90 degrees being target temp for most...

We put VW Synta gold in our mk1 vr turbo for some... tuning... sessions... and half an hour later the engine started sounding a bit rough. It had DESTROYED the oil... in 30 minutes. It was like water when we let it out. The motul stuff it now runs lasts very very well considering the (ab)use it gets

I'm currently using Silkolene Pro S 10w-50 in the rallye. Seems to hang on ok I've got oil pooring through a 900 degrees turbo though which you don't.

To give you an idea: My old mk2 vr running ~200hp would last 5 minutes flat out ragging on track before oil temps were 120 degrees+ with the standard oil cooler. With my 19 row on it (admittedly with poor air flow) temps were stable at 120 ish degrees. And that's a near standard engine.

50% more power could be argued as 50% more heat

Hmm. I run Synta Gold and see 108 on the dash every now and then, but yeah I do have to do an oil change every 1K miles (or less) so probably time to go for something more racey. My oil stays in the engine though, the charger has its own reservoir of race oil.

The silkolene stuff I use is only twice as much as synta and lasts shed loads better in my car

What is it and where can I get some?

Bought an oil cooler off a friend, oil filter spacing looks very fun for fitting though

Edit: ah, "Silkolene Pro S 10w-50"